DAY 2 .. ENNERDALE BRIDGE TO STONETHWAITE .. 14 MILES

I’ve started my foot care regimen, two plasters on each foot (toes) on possible problem spots along with double socks. My new Lowa boots feel great, plenty of room, but I have some Compeed for possible blisters. Medically, I am taking at least two ibupropen per day, morning and evening. Walking poles are taking stress off my knees, ankles and feet. I've found them essential to help this 71 year old body along.

For breakfast, a nice porriage, poached eggs and sausage. Two Manchester ladies here also, husbands don't walk. It's a fairly nice day and I'm off by 8:45 again. I'm passing walkers on the lakeside path, beautiful scenery, tumultuous streams feeding the lake, large boulders and exuberant flora. Visions of Puck's kingdom! I pass across the head of Ennerdale Water and follow a track above the River Liza leading to Black Sail hut. This is the most isolated youth hostel in England.


Ennerdale Water Looking East


Lakeside Path Looking West


River Liza near Black Sail


Black Sail Hut - Pure Isolation

Winds have picked up quite a bit. I was hoping to take the path up to Scarth Gap and Haystacks, those delightful crags, but met two fellows coming down off the top who dissuaded me. They said the wind was so strong it blew them over several times so I said no thanks. Instead, I spent a half hour at Black Sail drinking tea (as I did 5 years ago), then climbed up Loft Beck. It was steep, rocky and windy.

Near the top, I found a Canon camera on the trail and soon came to three walkers sitting on rocks gazing at the magnificent view of Buttermere Water and surrounding mountains. Turns out the camera belonged to Peter. He wasn't even aware he had dropped it. We all walked together to Stonethwaite. They were staying at the Langstrath Hotel, a couple of doors from my B&B, Stonethwaite Farm. We agreed to have dinner together.


Path Up Loft Beck


Buttermere Water Looking West

Walking over to the Langstrath, I was struck by what a beautiful isolated village this is with stone houses and narrow lanes. Meeting the threesome in the bar, I had a very nice Cock Mouth ale, then into the dining room for a wonderful sea bass with spinach and potatoes. Five years ago, I couldn't get dinner but had a great artichoke soup in the bar. Tonight we had a table because my friends were staying here. They are all recently retired, Peter and Linda from a leasing business, Larry was a lawyer. Larry is struggling on the slopes, working hard to get into shape while P and L are quite fit. They all had lamb shank then started ordering wine, then another. I drank more than I should have. Bad influences, you know.


Stonethwaite main street in the rain

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