COASTAL SIDE TRIP & ACCIDENT... OCT 2006
The sea, the coast, the coast trail, a beautiful
sight. Wow, it really follows the coastline, up and
down the ravines cutting into the sea. A large
walking group is passing on the trail so I sit,
rest, eat a trail bar and enjoy the view. The sky
has been clear since I emerged from dark Littlebeck
forest. My plan is to walk to Whitby and stay at the
hostel next to Whitby Abbey. Then tomorrow take a
bus north to Staithes and walk back to Whitby. Next
day, on to Robin Hoods Bay to complete the C2C, then
the last day on to Scarborough. Hopefully, this will
satisfy my desire for some good coastal walking.
C2C Meets The Coast Path
I eventually catch up with the group, about 15
walkers, and pass as they stop to regroup. I talk to
one fellow and find out they are from Lancaster on a
three day walk. Lo and behold, I then meet the
foursome from several days ago in Osmotherly and the
Cleveland Way. Of course, we are now on the
Cleveland Way again and they are a couple of days
from their finish. We had a great reunion, laughing
at the coincidence of our meeting. Soon I see the
Abbey ahead and then I am there, a very dramatic
ruin. But where is the hostel? Oh yes, just below.
It doesn't open until 5 pm so I go into town down
the famous 199 steps.
Whitby Abbey, An Imposing Place
I went to the TIC for a map and bus schedule, then
found the bus station for my jaunt to Staithes
tomorrow. Thought I should have some proper food so
I had fish and salad, bought an apple, then back up
the steps to the hostel at 5 pm. Washed my dirty
pants legs and socks etc so I will have enough clean
clothes to last the trip and chatted with some older
(my age) guests. An American, now living in
Edinburgh, fled to Canada to avoid the Vietnam war
and never regretted it. We went back into town
together to find a pub for a pint of Black Sheep,
boring pub, good company.
Next morning, I leave half my clothes at the hostel
so I have a very light pack. Twenty minutes on the
bus to Staithes. Its a steep walk from the road down
to this very picturesque town climbing off the bay.
I see a crab sandwich advertised, yumm. but the
place isn't open yet. Maybe I'll find one in
Runswick Bay. Nice climb up onto the cliff tops, but
weather is overcast so photos are less than ideal.
At lunch time I descend steeply into Runswick Bay,
but the only cafe is a very ordinary diner, not even
any fish. So much for my crab sandwich.
Pub In Staithes, Now That's My Kind Of Place
Looking Back At Staithes
About the time I reached Whitby the rain started so
I ducked into a restaurant for a pot of tea and a
sandwich. Then up the 199 steps to the Abbey to
visit the visitor center and bookstore. My wife
Cathryn is studying medieval English history so
requested me to look for books not widely available.
With a helpful clerk, I found three books that
seemed to qualify; St. Hilda, Medieval Women and a
history of Bede which has information on St.
Wilfred. All great stuff, yes?
Even though its raining, I decide to go out to the
famous Trencher's restaurant for dinner. I got the
Fisherman's Casserole, an amazing amount of fish and
shellfish, excellent. I stop at the pub next door
for a pint of Theakstons XB. It was a very
picturesque place with beer coasters hanging from
the rafters, hundreds of them. At the hostel, I hang
my jacket in the drying room. A group of fishermen
have come in; it will be a full house tonight, at
least in the men's dorm.
In the morning, I get the continental breakfast,
cereal, two croissants, orange, pear, juice and
coffee. Very satisfying! I don't think I could face
another English fried breakfast. Goodby to the
Edinburgh American and out to take photos of the
Abbey. Weather is very windy, dark clouds blowing
across. Sun for photos can be fleeting. One of two
women from the hostel walk by seemingly lost. I
point the way to the coastal path. She will meet her
friend in RHB. Photos taken, I also start on the
path but remember that I forgot to photograph the
great cross of Caedmon at the church with his famous
poem. Ahh, Cathryn will never forgive me! Caedmon
was an ordinary herdsman who supposedly learned to
compose poetry one night in the course of a dream
and became an inspirational religious poet and a
quite zealous monk. Of course, he was based at
Whitby.
Whitby Abbey, Last View
Storms Sweeping The Coast South Of Whitby
Muddy Coast Path
Its very blustery. Actually, severe winds. A huge
storm comes sweeping down from the north and I put
the duckback cover on my pack. The storm is gone in
15-20 minutes, out to sea, leaving an extremely
muddy path. The several walkers are having trouble
negotiating the mud. Following anothers example, I
begin following a parallel path on the other side of
the wire fence where there is a grassy verge next to
a farm field.
Eventually, the grassy path ends so I duck under the
wire to get back to the regular, muddy path. Then it
happens. The wire snags my pack cover which was
loosened by the wind, my walking pole slips, I slip
and my foot is twisted around back and under me as I
land on it.. A strange noise and PAIN. After
clearing my head, I manage to get up and hobble over
to a place to rest and assess the situation. My
right ankle seems to be a little wobbly, but intact.
Maybe its just a sprain. Thankfully, I can walk on
it with walking poles supporting me. Its about 4 or
5 miles to RHB, I'll just go half speed. I have
plenty of time. After a half hour, I rested on a
bench, then passed the spot where C2C joins the
coast, rested again enjoying the view, then finally
I reach RHB.
I ask for a chemist shop so I can get an ankle wrap.
No, there isn't one, but a Surgery is nearby. Its
still early, Surgery is open and doctor is in. She
wraps my ankle and calf. Its swollen and turning
colors, hard to fit back into my boot. She thinks it
should be x-rayed to see if the small ankle bone is
broken and suggests I go to the hospital in either
Whitby or Scarborough. They can't do xrays here, but
give me some painkillers so I can make it to the
hospital without keeling over. I try to pay for the
exam but she waves me off, no charge. Wow, is this
what national health service is like? Impressive!
I gingerly walk down to the bay, take some photos
and pop into Wainwright's Bar to sign the C2C book
and have a pint. I need it. I'm still looking for a
crab sandwich. The Victoria Hotel had them, but I
got there a half hour after it closed for food (2
pm). I saw another restaurant that had them but its
closed now also. Woe is me! I slip into a little
bakery/sandwich shop and get a pasty and a chocolate
covered trifle. Not bad. I decide to walk the 3/4
mile along the cliff to Boggle Hole YHA where I am
booked in. Just suck it up! Tomorrow I will take the
bus to Scarborough, visit the hospital and stay the
night at the hostel. Then if all goes well, I can
keep to my schedule and fly home the next day. I'm
not going to let a silly ankle keep me from my
schedule. But I'll have to admit, I just barely made
it to Boggle Hole.
Seashore At Robin Hoods Bay
Sign-In Bar At The Bay Hotel
RHB From Near Boggle Hole
At Boggle Hole, I'm the only one in a small two bunk
room w/wash basin. Dinner is vegetable curry w/rice
and apple crumble. They sell ale and wine so I get a
bottle of Landlords, made in Keighley, Yorkshire.
Excellent. Many families are here with lots of kids
of all ages. After dinner, I call Cathryn and tell
her about my fall; she is quite upset and I promise
to call tomorrow after the hospital. I wash the mud
off my pants and boots, take more painkillers and
settle down to writing and reading.
Next morning, the hardest thing was putting my boots
on over my swollen foot; I loosen the ties as much
as possible.
Breakfast is mediocre but coffee is good. I pack
carefully, taking my time. I have another cup of
coffee in the common room, check out and call for a
taxi to meet me in the carpark up the road. Nice
lady driver, a native, loves it here, advises me to
go directly to the A&E (accident and emergency)
entrance for treatment.
The bus drops me in front of the hospital and the
walkway leads me to A&E. They take my info, a nurse
examines me, then calls in a doctor who orders an
xray. I wait, then they order two more xrays. Wait
again. The doctor come in with the xrays and shows
me where the small vertical bone in my ankle is
fractured. There is only a slight displacement which
is why I could walk on it. They don't operate in
this case, but stabilize the fracture with a cast.
We decide that in my case, a cast would not be good
for a plane flight. I ask if there is something more
secure than a bandage wrap that is portable and can
be taken on and off. He goes off to consult with an
orthopedist and says there may be something.
Eventually, they find an orthopedic boot. Now the
doctor, nurse and the orthopedist crowd around
reading instructions to figure out how to install
the boot, lots of straps and velcro. It works! Feels
good. They give me some medicine and pain killers,
hand me the xrays to show my doctor in the USA, and
say goodby. No charge. Amazing. They were really
great. A lady explained to me that, for foreigners,
accidents are treated at no charge but there is a
charge if the treatment is outside of A&E. Fair
enough.
The hospital called a taxi to take me to the hostel
where I was prebooked. It was a nice friendly place,
good location and even has an internet. I called
Cathryn to give her the news, then called for a
morning taxi to take me to the train station.
This is my accident story. It was a very traumatic
event overall and its taken me three years before
I've felt like writing about it on blogs or walking
forums. My 2009 C2C walk was therapeutic in that
respect.