DAY 9 ... REETH TO BOLTON-ON-SWALE ... 17 MILES
Mediocre breakfast, nice hosts, off by 8:45 again.
Cloudy weather, rain passed during the night. I take
the path along the Swale instead of the road, pass
by Marrick Priory (now an outdoor center), and climb
up the Nun's Steps flanked by wild onion. At Marrick
I take the wrong path in an easterly direction
instead of northeast, so I have to cut down through
a field to Ellers farmhouse to meet the C2C again.
This section seems to be cursed for me; I missed the
path here in 2004 as well. From higher up, I think I
saw Bill and Katie pass at Eller's. They spent the
night at Keld, then Reeth, but I didn't see them
yesterday.
Marrick Priory
Nun's Steps
Eller's Farmhouse
Gate and Creek Crossing
Later, towards Richmond, I pass an American from
Vermont going east to west so we didn't talk much
but noted that we have the same Osprey Atmos 50
backpack. That evening at my b&b, I was looking at a
2004 Dalesman magazine and saw an article about Bill
Bryson with his photo; they looked so much alike,
beard and all. Could it have really been him?
Pink Campions
I passed under Willance's Leap, a cliff that Robert
Willance fell off on his horse and lost his leg. The
leg was buried in a coffin. Then six years later he
died and was buried in the same coffin with his leg.
This story was told to me by the walker from
Richmond at the Kings Arms in Reeth and occurred in
the early 17th century.
River Swale and Richmond Castle
I arrived in Richmond at 1:15 and visited the
trekking shop, bank, bakery and bookstore. Bought a
chocolate muffin and a Lustbader book, then
continued onward. I don't mind not staying because I
spent a day here five years ago at the end of my 2/3
C2C, visiting the castle and inhaling the pubs, even
bought a book from the same bookstore. After leaving
town, I tried the alternate route to Broughton on
the old RR bed. It started out nice, but degenerated
into a farm track and through a caravan park to a
main road which led through Broughton to Catterick
Bridge where I rejoined the C2C. This was not a
rewarding alternative. I wouldn't do it again.
Bluebells
River Swale with Catterick Bridge
Pinks Campions
I am now in the Vale of Mowbray, a flat plain
seperating Swaledale from the Cleveland Hills two
days ahead. Easy walking, but nothing of interest. I
reach Bolton by 4 pm and call 8 Forest Cottages for
a pickup. Its about two miles out in the country, so
I'll have dinner there. Dorothy serves me tea and
scones, then I clean up and write in my journal.
Dinner is at 7, soup, beef with vegetables and
yorkshire pudding, wine, ice cream with
apple/strawberry crumble. I'm stuffed! I read myself
to sleep.